It’s done! Over Spring Break last week, I began my first historical sewing project, a Regency shift (or chemise if you’re French). And I am amazed at how well it came out!
Because I wanted to explore the historical aspects of sewing, it’s all hand-sewn. It actually didn’t take me as long as I feared… maybe 5 hours total, including laying out the pattern, cutting it, and pinning it together. I used this gorgeous linen IL019 from Fabrics-Store.com (a fabulous supplier of linen). I got my entire hand-sewing kit from Sewing Arts Center. The woman who helped me there was so wonderful. I literally walked in and said “Hi I need all the things to sew a project by hand” and she hooked me up with thread (Mettler), scissors (she let me try Gingher, Peace, and one other super fancy one I can’t remember, and I liked the Peace best. They are a Korean brand and the ones I got are DMS-25 Dressmaking shears, 245mm). I even remembered to get a thimble. (But not beeswax, which led to some frustrating thread tangles!)
The pattern I used (Sense and Sensibility Regency Underthings), I should mention, is not entirely historically accurate, although it is based on an extant garment. Also, I didn’t piece it in a historically accurate way. Since it was my first attempt I wanted to give myself a little bit of flexibility in using modern techniques for ease. The pattern was not that hard to follow EXCEPT the sleeve gussets, which broke my brain. I watched a LOT of youtube tutorials and read a lot of blog posts about it. I also had trouble with the neckline, even though conceptually that’s easier. I just couldn’t get my head around which way to fold the seam down until I realized that the casing openings are on in inside of the garment (at least I think that are; because that’s what I did!). The seams are flat-felled; I tried to make the hems as narrow as I could.
I’m going to wear this under the Regency short stays from Red Threaded and a random not-very-good dress I sourced online to the Jane Austen Spring Assembly in Pasadena this Saturday!
For my next project, I want to make something from Sense and Sensibility Elegant Lady’s Closet (or Laughing Moon Mercantile Ladies’ Round Gown) in IL019 Oasis for day, and some sort of heavy silk for evening. Although I think I’ll make a mock-up in cheap muslin first.
The best thing about hand-sewing is I can do it sitting on the couch talking to David and watching a movie, versus at a machine in a separate room. Hand-sewing most resembles the feeling of knitting for me, and it’s deeply rewarding. I can’t wait to wear this shift at the Spring Assembly!